Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Field Work in Nyungwe


I’m sitting at the Uwinka field station right now with a wet squirrel in a pillow case sitting on my lap. We trapped him this afternoon after a rain storm and he got so cold that he wouldn’t leave when we let him go.

He just curled into a ball and started whimpering. So he sits in my lap now, warming himself against the body heat of my lap. Hopefully he’ll warm up enough so that I don’t have to keep him overnight.
I’ve had other overnight guests this week and I’m not sure if I’m prepared for another one.  Starting last week, I began trapping three small jackal pups. Initially, I thought it was just a single errand pup that had wandered into my trap.


Then the next day a new pup- same size as the last (~2kg). The next day I had two pups in different traps. The following day a third pup.

The day after and the day after, the same three pups were trapped. Jackals are social animals- they are usually reared by at least a mother and a father, along with last year’s litter who are “helpers”. All of the older animals forage for pups for about the first 6-9 months of their lives. They provision them by regurgitating prey they have captured and then teach them to hunt. Having three pups in my traps, all from the same litter, day after day meant trouble. I suspected they were orphans and that their parents were victims of the poaching epidemic at Nyungwe. The pups still had their baby teeth and the fact that these extremely smart animals were coming into my trap every day likely meant they were starving. I caught the smallest of the trio a third time (I had affectionately named them Huey, Luis and Dewey- Dewey was only 1.7kg) and decided to take him back to camp.

We brought him back and started to build an outside enclosure for him. I contacted the Rwandan permitting officials who ok’d my plan to keep the orphans until their adult teeth came in, even offering to split the costs and labor of keeping the pups. However it quickly became clear that I was on my own. Dewey stayed in the field house with me for two nights and he ate (and pooped) like a champ. Downing bowl after bowl of whole milk and sardines. But he was petrified anytime I approached.

I worried that taking in the puppy would mean it would never be able to return to the wild because he would not learn valuable foraging skills from his species. I wrote three prominent carnivore biologists asking for their advice and got a mixed bag of responses and no consensus. Since there was some question as to whether Dewey was actually an orphan or just a “trap happy” mischievous pup, I decided to release him. The decision was also based on the sad reality that I knew I couldn’t rely upon any Rwandan park officials to help me raise the pup for a few months and knowing I wouldn’t be here in Nyungwe long enough to see that it was done properly. Rwandans don’t really like animals- and they definitely don’t like jackals. I worried for Dewey’s safety after I left Nyungwe. Was it possible (even likely) that locals from nearby towns would come for him after I left? I suspected yes. So with a heavy conscience and a lot of uncertainty, I released Dewey back at his original trap site two days later.
Some of the carnivore specialists who suggested the pups were just “trap happy” (i.e. attracted to the traps by the yummy bait) instructed me to move the two traps where I repeatedly trapped the pups. I moved them and returned the next day wondering if the pups would move to adjacent traps. So far, no more pups. I deployed a camera trap baited with a mound of sardines at the side where I last trapped the pups. I hope I can get some data showing that I was wrong and that the puppies do have parents- just perhaps parents not keeping a very watchful eye on their litter! I will keep you posted with the results!
Okan is fairly miserable. Not only is he immobile and fairly helpless (he can’t even carry a cup of tea by himself), but also I’ve been in the field for the better part of the last two weeks. While there is someone at the house who can always cook for him and help him out (between roommates and the cook), I decided to cut my trapping schedule and will return to Butare on Monday. For one, I am miserable without Okan, and my field intern is a pathetic replacement for Super Okan! And second, we hope to travel to Lake Kivu one last time before we return to the States on Sept 23rd. I know both of us feel like we deserve a vacation! Okan has been working very hard for Kaplan at home, and his patience with me being away has been heroic.
Update the next day: well, I put the wet squirrel in a basket near our campfire last night. My intern was up around 2am and said he was still alive, but by the time we got to breakfast at 5am, the fire was out, and our squirrely buddy was a goner. Presumably hypothermia.  I was very sad. You can imagine my surprise when walking along the trail this morning to find a teeny tiny baby squirrel (of the same species) chirping along the trail’s edge. He was cold and alone.

 We had a big rainstorm yesterday and I imagine he might have fallen out of the nest? I picked him up (he is about the size of half of my hand) and warmed him up a bit. Then I left him where I found him and went along with my day’s work. Three hours later I returned to find him- he had fallen off the trail and was crying. I called Okan and asked him to do some internet searches on baby squirrels: how do you know if it’s an orphan? How long do parent’s leave their offspring? Okan reported back that it was no longer than 2 hrs (according to the internet! For what that is worth) and that you could hand rear them with milk and some electrolytes. I returned a few hours later to find he was still where I left him. I gathered him and put him in the front shirt pocket for the walk home. By the time I got back, he had started moving around again (he was very cold when I found him) and started crying.

I warmed some milk with a teeny bit of sugar and salt and got my pipette out and he quite eagerly lapped up the warm milk. I filled a ziplock with warm water and placed him on it. What have I got myself into!?!? I’ve named him Harvey. I think Okan is pretty excited about our new friend too. I’m hoping our roommate might be bribed into baby-sitting when I return to the States later this month. In the meantime, he’s in a basket on his water bottle and with a towel over him. He cries for milk every 3 or so hours but otherwise sleeps. I wonder what would happen if I tried to bring my scrappy little buddy in my pocket on the plane home? Would his crying give me away? (just kidding folks).  I’ll post pictures of all my wayward animal friends as soon as I have a decent internet connection next week. Pictures up soon!

Sunday, July 24, 2011

July in Rwanda

It's been a long time since my last blog, and we've been really busy in the meantime. Our friends, Joy and Margaret, from NYC, came to visit us at the beginning of the month and we spent 11 days traveling all over the entire country with them. It was really fun and a welcome reprieve from field work. We went on safari in the east of Rwanda. Photos of the safari can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2317497262020.141630.1387146989&l=a00acfa692&type=1

We also visited Lake Kivu and Nyungwe. Will post those pictures and details soon. More soon...

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Jackals in the Mist

The weather here has been unusually bad the last few days. Non-stop rain and very cold. So we haven't trapped any animals in a few days. However, before the rain descended on Nyungwe, we were lucky enough to catch a young jackal in one of our larger traps. Jackals are closely related to dogs and are opportunistic carnivores that feed on small mammals, birds, reptiles, and other prey items like insects.  Initially I was very excited that we finally captured a jackal. But after sedating her and giving her a physical exam, my excitement turned to sadness. She was only about a year old (5.5kg) but had a serious snare injury to her right front paw. Her leg was broken at the wrist, and the pad of her paw was seriously mangled- only two of her five pads of the paw remained. She had an obvious snare scar just above her mangled paw, and above the scar, her wrist was bent - clearly fractured. I don't know what her chances of surviving such an injury are, but I suspect they aren't great. Jackals typically hunt by pouncing on their prey, and with one of her two front paws being useless, I don't see how she will survive in the long run. I couldn't help but wonder if maybe that was why she was in my trap at all (ie. hunger).

It is becoming increasingly clear that the plight of Nyungwe's carnivores is not a priority in Rwanda. For one, carnivores are elusive and nocturnal, tourists or locals rarely see them so they can't be used to bring in tourist dollars into the country.  One hears much about the state of gorillas and birds throughout the world, but the plight of poorly studied carnivores in these remote mountains, where it is almost impossible to see these creatures, is not on anyone's mind, even those government and NGO agencies responsible for conservation.

Studying carnivores can be difficult and frustrating work — people are generally either afraid of carnivores or generally dislike them because they can prey on their livestock, so there is little incentive to protect them. Poachers can receive either much-needed protein from hunting carnivores or money for selling snared wildlife in remote villages, or more likely, across the border in the DRC, a mere 40km away.

This is not the first snare injury I have seen. My camera traps have captured images of other jackals with snare scars on their wrists. And these are just pictures of animals that survive- I'm sure there are many more of the smaller carnivores that aren't able to free themselves from the snares of poachers.  It's also interesting to talk to locals about carnivores here. Some people boast that they have seen leopard and golden cat (the two most elusive carnivores that have existed in Nyungwe in the past- now it is not clear if they have been extirpated here or not). Yet, most of the people I talk to aren't able to even differentiate between even common, non-carnivore species, like primates.

For example, my two students from NUR came to work here for the last month on their thesis projects. I received a call from them one day as they were going to check their traps that they had run into "monkeys" blocking the trail. I tried to ascertain what species of monkey (there are 13 species here and only one is aggressive, the olive baboon). They said they didn't know what species it was, only that it was grey. I asked for other descriptions (are they in the trees or on the ground? How big are they? How many?). The students were petrified of the animals and could only tell me some vague details. I told them to hang out and see if the troop moved away, otherwise they could eventually clap their hands and slowly approach them. I received a text an hour later saying they (the monkeys) hadn't moved and they were too afraid to approach them. To make a long story short, the monkeys turned out to be olive baboons. Which can be aggressive if you are 1) a stupid tourist who tries to get too close to take a picture, or 2) a stupid tourist/local who tries to feed the animals. But otherwise the animals are fairly mild mannered and given a respectful distance, pose no real threat. But what struck me wasn't what species they were, so much as my undergraduate biology students, one of whom grew up at Akagara National Park (where there are tons of baboons), couldn't identify them, even though theyare extremely common in Rwanda.

So if Zoology students aren't able to identify one of the most common primate species found in Rwanda, then I don't rely too heavily on the ancedotal "sightings" of leopards and golden cat that I have heard about in Nyungwe. For one, leopards look a lot like serval (large spotted felid), and solitary cats are amongst some of the most elusive of carnivores to ever see. There's really no telling what carnivore species remain in Nyungwe. I can tell you however, that if you go to websites endorsing tourism at the National Parks in Rwanda, you'll be surprised to know that these websites say that tigers, yes TIGERS, are in Rwanda!! Tigers are in India and other parts of Asia. See for yourself: http://www.akageralodge.co.rw/games/wild%20activites.htm

I'm hoping that my camera trapping might begin to shed some light on whether some of these rarer carnivore species exist, and what habitat they prefer. Perhaps this data can be used to encourage further conservation measures in Nyungwe - specifically, to protect wildlife from illegal poaching. Because while no tourist will ever likely see a wild leopard at Nyungwe, they still remain one of the more charismatic carnivores (after lions) that persist in Rwanda, and perhaps knowing they exist might draw some tourist dollars to this part of the country.  Unfortunately, it seems that money is the only real incentive for developing conservation plans in most of Rwanda

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Arusha and after

Was in Arusha, Tanzania for the Association of Tropical Biology and Conservation conference last week. It was such a fun trip. We went on a day safari to Arusha National Park and the conference itself was really interesting. I presented some of my preliminary carnivore data and met lots of really interesting scientists conducting research all over the tropics.

We returned to the field on Sunday and resumed live trapping. Our first day back we caught another genet. This guy (okan named him Scrappy because he was kind of older and scrappy looking) was an adult male.

 Earlier this week, we went to the middle of the forest to deploy more camera traps. One of my undergraduate thesis students came along too.  We began by crossing over a very high canopy walk in the forest which was amazing. We hiked a very hard trail (6 hr hike over 1000m in altitude) and I was really hoping a magical helicopter would come rescue me about 5 hours into the hike- three hours were hiking straight up 1000 m in altitude. BRUTAL! And I wasn't even carrying a heavy pack! Okan was carrying the camera traps, and as usual he was just skipping up the mountain. The hike was really beautiful and there were 5 different waterfalls along the way.
 My student Aloys and myself on the canopy walk
 Okan conquered his fear of heights on the canopy walk
 Nyungwe Forest near Uwinka (middle of forest)
 The first of several waterfalls
 Aloys and I at the waterfall

 More waterfalls!

 Okan and I resting at the bottom of the valley (3 hours into the hike) at one of the last waterfalls

Okan is staying in Butare now to do some work and I have a friend coming out to help me in the field for a few days. I only have another 8 days of trapping until I finish at my current site. Then I will close the traps and I have two friends from NYC who will be coming for 2 weeks in early July for a visit. Okan and I have saved most of our sightseeing to do with Joy and Margaret so we will be visiting different parts of the country with them.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Busy

Much to my surprise we caught a genet yesterday. He was a youngster (1 yr old) and very, very cute. We met some men on the trail who asked us if they could kill the genet and eat him. It was very disconcerting. These are men who are hired by the park to keep the trails clear. We told them to beat it and luckily a park guard was nearby to keep them away from our furry friend.




We have had a very busy last few weeks. We deployed more camera traps in the middle of Nyungwe 2 days ago that resulted in an 8 hour day of hiking up and down mountains. Even Okan, who never gets tired (or so it seems), is ready for a break. We have now returned to Butare and I'm heading to Arusha for a conference tomorrow.

My friend Robin tooks some nice pics of us while we were baiting the traps the other day as well as some good pics of animals we saw along the way to deploy camera traps.
 We were baiting with hard boiled eggs

 I couldn't do all this work without Okan!
 Everest the guard came with us that day.

 Okan doesn't mind baiting, but he refuses to put out the lure (an oily smelly pungent liquid to attract animals to the trap. It takes FOREVER to get the smell off your hands!)
 Baboons on the road
 Very big worm found in the forest
 L'hoest monkey

Friday, June 3, 2011

Dry Season has Started

I've finally started live trapping but am not catching any animals. In part, this is because the lovely folks who issue the research permits, forbade me to use live bait (chickens, which are protected in the trap by chicken wire so they are never harmed). I got the call about not using live bait literally as we were driving to the field site with four small chickens in our back seat (which took Okan hours to procure). While it might seem cruel to you to use live bait, it is really one of the best ways to capture carnivores in huge forests like Nyungwe because the chickens make noise that attracts the predators. I won't bore you with the reasons why they forbade me to use live bait, or why the decided to make this change as I was deploying the chickens, but it is extremely disappointing given that they approved my permit to do this in April and I have dotted every i and crossed every t with regard to working with the permit agency and my research. Anyway, don't expect any capture photos anytime soon.

The good news is that the camera trapping continues to yield great pics of carnivores and other animals (see below). The field work has been utterly exhausting. In the mornings this week, I have hiked for several hours with my students and have been training them in capturing small mammals. After a week, they are now on their own and doing well! But it has been exhausting because after getting back from the students, I eat a sandwich and then go out to hike my own trail and bait traps. We are hiking 10km a day every day. Okan however, doesn't feel this is challenging enough. So he hikes OUT to the trail from another trail which adds another 5km to his daily hike. Today he hiked up the trail where my traps are in only 30 minutes (it takes me closer to 1.5 hrs!). Needless to say, it is hard to keep up!

Okan is all better from his Giardia and while we are both exhausted from the field work, we are otherwise well and healthy. This weekend we have friends in town and will take them to my field site tomorrow in Nyungwe. Then next week I go to Arusha for a conference for a week.

Ok, some quick pictures of the animals I have found on my camera traps!
A SERVAL
 A FRANCOLIN (FOREST HEN)
 A L'HOEST MONKEY
 A YOUNG CHIMP
 A JACKAL
BLACK FRONTED DUIKER
 A PERFECTLY POSING L'HOEST MONKEY
 THE MOST BEAUTIFUL KITTY IN THE FOREST (SERVAL)
 MORE L'HOEST MONKEYS
 AN OLDER CHIMP
 A "GREY BEARD" (OLDER) CHIMP

 ONE OF THE BEST CHIMP PICTURES I HAVE. HE IS CHECKING OUT THE CAMERA AND POSING.
 MAMA AND BABY
 DUIKER
GENET- I thought this was a genet but NO! It is an African Palm Civet: ANOTHER ONE OF MY STUDY ANIMALS